The Softest Milk Buns and All The Ways to Eat Them

from breakfast to dinner and everything in between, these buns have got your back

This week I was in the mood for bread. As someone who is a self confessed bread fiend and eats it pretty much every day, I don’t make it from scratch as often as I’d like. The joys of homemade bread are plenty. From the making, to the kneading to the eating. The smell alone of fresh bread filling the kitchen is something I wish I could bottle up and carry with me. I had deep cravings for some ultra soft, fluffy, slightly sweet, good with everything, milk buns. I made these a couple of months ago when I had friends over for brunch and they went down very well and very quickly so I thought it would only be polite to share them with you too.

One of the ways in which these buns stay so soft and pillowy is in part due to something called a tangzhong. It’s a method used frequently in Chinese and Japanese baking where a paste of flour and liquid (usually a mix of water and milk) is cooked until thick and added into the dough. The tangzhong helps to enhance the texture of the bread as it’s able to absorb and retain more water and moisture without giving us a really sloppy dough. I also add in some milk powder when making bread like this and the added protein contributes to the tender crumb and rise of the bread. If you don’t have any, you can still make this recipe with delicious results but I find it’s a useful ingredient to keep in my cupboards.

I particularly love it when a bake is a true all rounder and can be enjoyed in different ways at various points throughout the day. When it comes to these buns, here is my suggested schedule of eating.

As soon as they’re out of the oven : Once they’re cool enough to handle, you have to have one straight away while still warm and steamy. Rip it open with your fingers and enjoy the way the strands pull away from each other. Once they’ve cooled down even further, they are especially good for some late afternoon sweetness with butter and jam or a drizzle of honey.

That evening: If you’re making these to have with dinner, the choice is endless. Serve them like me, alongside a bowl of hearty spiced daal, or with pretty much any soup. Basically if there’s anything that needs mopping up, the milk buns would be the perfect vessel. You could split them open and fill with some fried chicken and pickles, top them with baked beans and cheese for a cosy classic or brush with garlic butter and serve with pasta.

The next morning : The fun continues. For a top tier weekend breakfast, fill a bun with bacon, a crispy fried egg drizzled with some chilli crisp oil and a shower of grated parmesan. 10/10 way to start your Saturday.

Bonus snack: Fresh homemade bread won’t keep as long as bread you get in the supermarkets but you can give these buns a new lease of life after a day or two by toasting in a dry pan, topping with a pat of butter and a good glug of condensed milk. Add a thin spread of peanut butter for something along the lines of a Hong Kong French toast.

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MILK BUNS

I tend to make these in a stand mixer for ease but it’s also doable by hand. The dough will be quite sticky to work with at first but don’t be tempted to add more flour. Just give the dough frequent rests, uncovered, every couple of minutes before continuing.

RECIPE

makes 12

For the tangzhong:
25g bread flour
70ml milk
45ml water

For the dough:
425g bread flour
1 1/2 tbsp milk powder
60g sugar
1 tsp fine sea salt
12g fast action dried yeast
160ml milk, room temp
1 medium egg
60g unsalted butter, softened

1 beaten egg
2 tbsp salted butter, melted to finish

METHOD

1. To make the tangzhong, add the flour, milk and water to a small saucepan and mix to combine. Set the pan over medium heat and cook the mixture, whisking constantly until it thickens to a gel like consistency. Remove from the heat, place it in a bowl and cover so it doesn’t form a skin. Let it cool to room temperature before using.

2. To make the dough, add the tangzhong, flour, milk powder, sugar, salt and yeast to a bowl (adding the salt and yeast to opposite sides). Give it a quick mix to loosely combine and make a well in the centre, pouring in the milk and egg.

3. Knead the dough on low speed for 3-4 minutes until it comes together. Add in the softened butter and continue to knead for 7-8 minutes until the dough is soft, smooth and supple. It will be a bit tacky but shouldn’t be super sticky.

4. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with cling film or a clean tea towel and let it rise for 1.5-2 hours in a warm place until puffy. Knock out the air and turn out the dough onto a clean work surface. Split it into 12 equal portions - approx 72g each.

5. Roll each piece tightly into a ball and place them inside a deep baking tray approx 9x13inch lined with enough baking paper to help you lift it out later.

6. Cover the tray and let the dough rise again for 30-45 minutes until puffy and the space between them has reduced.

7. Preheat the oven to 190c/170c fan.

8. Add a tablespoon of milk to a beaten egg and brush the tops of the buns with egg wash.

9. Bake the buns for 30-35 minutes or until the tops are well browned and well risen. As soon as they come out, brush the tops with melted butter and let them cool in the tray.

10. Serve them whilst still warm or let them cool completely.